collector’s view – the eclecticum

Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève GPHG Academy

The Finalist Watches of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 (GPHG) – our Favourites & more!

AHCI, Andersen Genève, Angelus, Anordain, Armin Strom, Arnold & Son, ArtyA, Audemars Piguet, Bernhard Lederer, Bovet, Breitling, Bulgari, Chanel, Chopard, Christiaan van der Klaauw, Christophe Claret, Ciga Design, collectors, De Bethune, Dior, Doxa, Furlan Marri, Garrick, Girard-Perregaux, Grand Seiko, H. Moser & Cie, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jacob & Co, Kari Voutilainen, Karsten Frässdorf, Konstantin Chaykin, L.U.C, Louis Erard, Louis Vuitton, Massena Lab, MB&F, Miki Eleta, Milus, Novelty 2021, ORIS, Piaget, Reservoir, Trilobe, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vianney Halter, watches, Zenith

Here’s our take on the Academy’s selection of the 2021 GPHG finalists – an event overdue for some fresh thinking…

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Collector´s view: MING 17.09 BLUE – representing the 70s and yet the 21st century

collectors, MING, Novelty 2021, Schwarz Etienne, watches

Hands-on with MING ´17.09 BLUE` - a novelty for 2021 but (also) sold out already. Lots of livfe pictures (on strap and bracelet) and some thoughts about a masterpiece of design that might not be to everyone’s taste

Heima bepsoke strap japanese goat leather

The value of passionate spending: a fully bespoke strap from Heima Leathers (& interview with founder!)

accessories, bespoke, collectors, Girard-Perregaux, watches

True luxury might not cost a lot of money and might even come form unsuspected places (Indonesia here), but it requires taste, a bit of imagination, but the result is deeply satisfying – if you work with the right people!

Breguet Tourbillon Reinhard Meis 220th Anniversary 1801-2021

26 June 1801 – 26 June 2021: 220 years of the tourbillon

A. Lange & Söhne, AHCI, Audemars Piguet, Beat Haldimann, Breguet, Chronoswiss, collectors, Daniel Roth, Derek Pratt, Don Corson, F.P. Journe, Ferdinand Berthoud, François-Paul Journe, George Daniels, Girard-Perregaux, Glashütte Original, Greubel Forsey, Jacob & Co, Omega, Patek Philippe, Paul Gerber, Swatch, Thomas Prescher, Uncategorised, Urban Jürgensen, Vincent Calabrese, watches, watchmakers, Zenith

The tourbillon turned from an ingenious device to fight gravitational errors into a place holder for fine watchmaking of inflationary abundance. We’ll attempt to highlight its highs and lows, and discuss its future

Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Piece Unique Movement Jewels Escape Wheel Old Stock Assembly

Gold Dust: Vacheron Constantin’s ´American 1921 Piece Unique` - “faithfully recreated as if in 1921”

Akrivia, collectors, Daniel Roth, François-Paul Journe, gold dust, Greubel Forsey, Jean-Pierre Hagmann, Kari Voutilainen, Michel Boulanger, Michel Parmigiani, Novelty 2021, Peter Speake, Rexhep Rexhepi, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Vianney Halter, watches

How Vacheron Constantin created the ´American 1921 Piece Unique`: When one of the ´Holy Trinity` comes across like an independent artisan …

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Collector´s view: 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold „Homage to F. A. Lange”

A. Lange & Söhne, collectors, Novelty 2020, Patek Philippe, watches

Hands-on with A. Lange & Söhne ´1815 Rattrapante Honeygold` with real live life pictures – and a competitor on par

Massena Lab Archetype 0.0 gilt dial sellita SW 510 M William Rohr chronograph

Gold Dust: Massena Lab’s Archetype 0.0 brings back the lovely gilt dials of the past

collectors, gold dust, Massena Lab, Novelty 2021, watches

Noted collector, industry insider and now also watch producer William Massena embarked on a mission to revive the forgotten art of ‘true’ gilt dials – a high rejection rate allowed for only two hand full of Archetype 0.0 watches to be made

Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronographs: manual shift sticks vs automatic transmission?

collectors, Hamilton, Novelty 2021, watches

In search for a ‘serious’ watch with credible history, stylish, reliable but not too expensive? The Hamilton Intra-Matic chronographs come to mind. Now available with automatic and manual wind movements, and a few subtle differences

IWC Pilot's Chronograph 41mm automatic 3881 chronograph in-house

Hands-On with the new IWC Pilot’s Chronograph 41mm

collectors, IWC Schaffhausen, Novelty 2021, watches

What looks like just a smaller case and a new dial for IWC’s classic Pilot’s Chronograph is indeed an upgrade that recalls the traditional ‘engineer type watchmaking’ of IWC

Atelier Leonard Kahlcke shoes bespoke made-to-order made-to-measure

The value of passionate spending: A bespoke project about shoes with ´Atelier Leonard Kahlcke`

bespoke, collectors, Leonard Kahlcke, Shoes

A first meeting with shoemaker Leonard Kahlcke and no intention to start a new bespoke project on my side … and then life came in between

Hands-on with the MING 27.02 - a novelty for 2021

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Collector´s view: MING 27.02 – two different versions, at least!

collectors, MING, Novelty 2021, watches

Hands-on with the MING 27.02 - a novelty for 2021 but sold out already. Yet it´s just amazing what it has to offer at its prices, given its (unique) design and execution

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The value of passionate spending: A bespoke project about shoes with ´Il Micio – Hidetaka Fukaya`

bespoke, collectors, Hidetaka Fukaya, Shoes

This time it´s about shoes, a personal bespoke project with ´Il Micio - Hidetaka Fukaya`, from Firenze. A first on several levels and an interesting journey

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The OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Cal. 3861 – an icon made fit for the future

collectors, Novelty 2021, Omega, watches

The Porsche 911, the Leica M or the OMEGA Speedmaster – the crux for such timeless industrial designs is how to keep them up to date. With the new Speedmaster Moonwatch Cal. 3861 there’s something for the Rationalist, the Purist and the Maximalist

Paul Gerber Cal. 41 Jumping Seconds AHCI manufacture triple rotor

Gold Dust: Paul Gerber Cal. 41 – the seconds in your hand

collectors, gold dust, Paul Gerber, watches, watchmakers

Paul Gerber is perhaps the most subtly ironic watchmaker – always ready with a charming watchmaking twist – such as this ‘bi-nique’ Cal. 41 wristwatch with switchable jumping/permanent seconds and triple rotors

Zenith Chronomaster Sport automatic chronograph El Primero Cal. 3600

Zenith ´Chronomaster Sport` – a new dress and the El Primero Cal. 3600: updates with benefits…

collectors, Novelty 2021, watches, Zenith

The venerable El Primero gets a first substantial upgrade (Cal. 3600) in 5 decades: 1/10 of a second, more autonomy, conventional crown positions, and revised chrono mechanics, clothed in a new old dress – ´Chronomaster Sport`

Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon Resonance triple axis

Vianney Halter’s new Deep Space Tourbillon Resonance: allowing a glimpse into the temperamental nature of the Universe

collectors, Novelty 2021, Vianney Halter, watches, watchmakers

The Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon Resonance shows the universe space-time continuum on your wrist – and this without any astronomical indication

Hands-on: a comprehensive collector´s view on the MING 18.01 H41 and its (universal) bracelet. The latest diver watch to the MING family, a novelty from 2020.

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Collector´s view: MING – Ming 18.01 H41

collectors, MING, Novelty 2020, watches

Hands-on: a comprehensive collector´s view on the MING 18.01 H41 and its (universal) bracelet. The latest diver watch to the MING family, a novelty from 2020.

OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum chronograph manufacture handwound

OMEGA: Hands-On with the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum

collectors, Omega, watches

With the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum, OMEGA reinvented its watchmaking core philosophy, subtly, surprisingly, and full of delights for the aficionado

MIH Watch Musee International d'Horologerie Ludwig Oechslin Paul Gerber Christian Gafner Beat Weinmann Annual Calendar Monopusher Chronograph Simplicity

Gold Dust: 15 years MIH Watch – A Milestone and a Pacemaker of the rarest sort

collectors, Ludwig Oechslin, MIH Watch, Paul Gerber, watches

There are signs for a relaunch, but what would this ‘new’ watch be without Ludwig Oechslin, Paul Gerber – and even without the MIH?

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Hands-on with the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date – stainless steel and red gold

collectors, Glashütte Original, Novelty 2020, watches

A novelty from 2020, a new member of the ´Spezialist`collection from Glashütte Original: SeaQ Panorama Date - in a bicolour case with a grey and (synthetic) textile strap

François-Paul Journe resonance pocket watch movement 1984

F.P. Journe 20th Anniversary Exhibition « 20 years of Résonance »

collectors, F.P. Journe, François-Paul Journe, watches

A virtual walk through F. P. Journe’s exhibition celebrating the 20th Anniversary of his iconic Chronomètre à Résonance watch

The Finalist Watches of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020 (GPHG) – our Favourites

Andersen Genève, Armin Strom, Atelier de Chronométrie, Bernhard Lederer, Bovet, Breitling, Bulgari, Chanel, collectors, De Bethune, Dior, Ferdinand Berthoud, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Habring2, Hajime Asaoka, IWC Schaffhausen, Jacob & Co, Kurono, Louis Erard, MB&F, MING, Novelty 2020, Petermann Bédat, Romain Gauthier, Sarpaneva Watches, Trilobe, Urwerk, Van Cleef & Arpels, watches

A lot of things are new for this year’s edition: here’s our take on the Academy’s selection of the 2020 GPHG finalists

Schwarz Etienne Roma Synergy by Kari Voutilainen guilloche micro-rotor manufacture

Schwarz Etienne: Hands-On with the new Roma Synergy by Kari Voutilainen

collectors, Kari Voutilainen, Novelty 2020, Schwarz Etienne, watches, watchmakers

The Roma Synergy shows how carefully Kari Voutilainen interprets the work of a fellow integrated manufacturer

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometry FB 1 chronometer dial heatblued steel hands

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking: Ferdinand Berthoud

collectors, Ferdinand Berthoud, watches

Ferdinand Berthoud - an acclaimed watchmaker in the 18th century and reborn as a brand only in 2015 – old yet young with highest ambitions and idiosyncratic details

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Blue Ref. 5367PT Grand Feu Enamel

Breguet – Hands-On with the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Blue Ref. 5367PT

Breguet, collectors, Novelty 2020, watches

From Cerulean over Yves Klein to Ultra Marine– the many shades of blue might well be the penultimate instance of a Grand Feu enamel dial

Patek Philippe Split seconds chronograph rattrapante 5950 monopusher

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking: Patek Philippe

collectors, Patek Philippe, watches

The famous watchmaker from Geneva is an obvious candidate, isn’t it?

Swatch Sistem51 Petite Seconde automatic blue dial wristshot

Swatch – Hands-On with the Sistem51 Petite Seconde

collectors, Novelty 2020, Swatch, watches

A timeless marvel of automatised watchmaking gets a subtle treat

Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin Flying Tourbillon wristshot

Chopard - Hands-on with the L.U.C. Flying T Twin

Chopard, collectors, L.U.C, watches

The manufacture’s first automatic flying tourbillon is destined to adorn the wrists of discerning gentlemen.

Paul Gerber master watchmaker AHCI superbia humanitatis

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking - of old masters, elves, virgins … or superheroes?

AHCI, Audemars Piguet, collectors, Ferdinand Berthoud, Greubel Forsey, Lang & Heyne, Patek Philippe, Paul Gerber, Rexhep Rexhepi, Romain Gauthier, Swatch, Urwerk, watches, Zenith

How to define the very best in watchmaking? the eclecticum looks beyond in-house and finishing...

The Finalist Watches of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 (GPHG) – our Favourites & more!

Collector´s view: MING 17.09 BLUE – representing the 70s and yet the 21st century

The value of passionate spending: a fully bespoke strap from Heima Leathers (& interview with founder!)

26 June 1801 – 26 June 2021: 220 years of the tourbillon

Gold Dust: Vacheron Constantin’s ´American 1921 Piece Unique` - “faithfully recreated as if in 1921”

Collector´s view: 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold „Homage to F. A. Lange”

Gold Dust: Massena Lab’s Archetype 0.0 brings back the lovely gilt dials of the past

Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronographs: manual shift sticks vs automatic transmission?

Hands-On with the new IWC Pilot’s Chronograph 41mm

The value of passionate spending: A bespoke project about shoes with ´Atelier Leonard Kahlcke`

Collector´s view: MING 27.02 – two different versions, at least!

The value of passionate spending: A bespoke project about shoes with ´Il Micio – Hidetaka Fukaya`

The OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Cal. 3861 – an icon made fit for the future

Gold Dust: Paul Gerber Cal. 41 – the seconds in your hand

Zenith ´Chronomaster Sport` – a new dress and the El Primero Cal. 3600: updates with benefits…

Vianney Halter’s new Deep Space Tourbillon Resonance: allowing a glimpse into the temperamental nature of the Universe

Collector´s view: MING – Ming 18.01 H41

OMEGA: Hands-On with the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum

Gold Dust: 15 years MIH Watch – A Milestone and a Pacemaker of the rarest sort

Hands-on with the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date – stainless steel and red gold

F.P. Journe 20th Anniversary Exhibition « 20 years of Résonance »

The Finalist Watches of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020 (GPHG) – our Favourites

Schwarz Etienne: Hands-On with the new Roma Synergy by Kari Voutilainen

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking: Ferdinand Berthoud

Breguet – Hands-On with the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Blue Ref. 5367PT

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking: Patek Philippe

Swatch – Hands-On with the Sistem51 Petite Seconde

Chopard - Hands-on with the L.U.C. Flying T Twin

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking - of old masters, elves, virgins … or superheroes?

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