
Paul Gerber’s new Ref. 420 Triple Rotor ‘Guilloché’ questions the common paradigms of ‘Haute Horlogerie’
AHCI, collectors, Novelty 2023, Paul Gerber, watches, watchmakersMy first ‘New Watch Alert’ for 2023, the Ref. 420 Triple Rotor 'Guilloché', is what I consider ‘essentially Paul’: unique 'in-house' watchmaking with a twinkling eye

Ferdinand Berthoud: Chapter III – Snapshot´s of the new ´Chronométre FB 3SPC` – two different versions, plus the official information about the novelty
collectors, Ferdinand Berthoud, Novelty 2022, watchesSnapshot´s and details about the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 3SPC in white- and rose-gold: When curves consort with chronometry

Snapshot(s) – Patek Philippe ´Annual Calendar – Ref. 5205R-011` – an exception from the rule
collectors, Novelty 2022, Patek Philippe, snapshot, watchesHands-on. Snapshots and thoughts about an highly attractive ´Annual Calendar` from Patek Philippe with an ´eclectic´ green dial

Watches & Wonders 2022 – a year of eclectic refinement and delights for the connoisseur (Part 3)
collectors, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Louis Moinet, Novelty 2022, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Tudor, watches, ZenithA view on Watches & Wonders 2022 novelties through the imaginary eye of an eclectic GPHG Academician (Chronograph, Diver´s, Artistic Crafts, "Petite Aiguille", Challenge)

Watches & Wonders 2022 – a year of eclectic refinement and delights for the connoisseur (Part 2)
A. Lange & Söhne, Chopard, collectors, Ferdinand Berthoud, Grand Seiko, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Louis Moinet, Novelty 2022, Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, watches, ZenithA view on Watches & Wonders 2022 novelties through the imaginary eye of an eclectic GPHG Academician (Iconic, Tourbillon, Calendar and Astronomy, Mechanical Exception)

Watches & Wonders 2022 – a year of eclectic refinement and delights for the connoisseur (Part 1)
A. Lange & Söhne, Chopard, collectors, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, Grand Seiko, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, L.U.C, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Moinet, Ludwig Oechslin, Novelty 2022, Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Ressence, Roger Dubuis, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, watches, ZenithA view on Watches & Wonders 2022 novelties through the imaginary eye of an eclectic GPHG Academician (Luxury Sports Watches, Ladies´ Complication, Men´s, Men´s Complication)

Torrefazione La Triestina – Exploring Unfiltered Artisanal Coffee Culture in Italy’s ‘Coffee Capital’
coffee, collectors, fine foodIf you forget famous names and look around the corners of Trieste, you’ll find some authentic treasures such as ‘La Triestina’ - treasures that are under thread

URWERK: the new ‘UR-112 Aggregat’ – hands-on with a most complicated gearbox for your wrist
collectors, Felix Baumgartner, Martin Frei, Novelty 2021, Urwerk, watchesThe horological mechanics put ‘time – at your service!’ with a clever use of planetary gear systems, and finally overcome their dislike of silicon – meet the Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat

The Finalist Watches of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 (GPHG) – our Favourites & more!
AHCI, Andersen Genève, Angelus, Anordain, Armin Strom, Arnold & Son, ArtyA, Audemars Piguet, Bernhard Lederer, Bovet, Breitling, Bulgari, Chanel, Chopard, Christiaan van der Klaauw, Christophe Claret, Ciga Design, collectors, De Bethune, Dior, Doxa, Furlan Marri, Garrick, Girard-Perregaux, Grand Seiko, H. Moser & Cie, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jacob & Co, Kari Voutilainen, Karsten Frässdorf, Konstantin Chaykin, L.U.C, Louis Erard, Louis Vuitton, Massena Lab, MB&F, Miki Eleta, Milus, Novelty 2021, ORIS, Piaget, Reservoir, Trilobe, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vianney Halter, watches, ZenithHere’s our take on the Academy’s selection of the 2021 GPHG finalists – an event overdue for some fresh thinking…

Collector´s view: MING 17.09 BLUE – representing the 70s and yet the 21st century
collectors, MING, Novelty 2021, Schwarz Etienne, watchesHands-on with MING ´17.09 BLUE` - a novelty for 2021 but (also) sold out already. Lots of livfe pictures (on strap and bracelet) and some thoughts about a masterpiece of design that might not be to everyone’s taste

The value of passionate spending: a fully bespoke strap from Heima Leathers (& interview with founder!)
accessories, bespoke, collectors, Girard-Perregaux, watchesTrue luxury might not cost a lot of money and might even come form unsuspected places (Indonesia here), but it requires taste, a bit of imagination, but the result is deeply satisfying – if you work with the right people!

26 June 1801 – 26 June 2021: 220 years of the tourbillon
A. Lange & Söhne, AHCI, Audemars Piguet, Beat Haldimann, Breguet, Chronoswiss, collectors, Daniel Roth, Derek Pratt, Don Corson, F.P. Journe, Ferdinand Berthoud, François-Paul Journe, George Daniels, Girard-Perregaux, Glashütte Original, Greubel Forsey, Jacob & Co, Omega, Patek Philippe, Paul Gerber, Swatch, Thomas Prescher, Uncategorised, Urban Jürgensen, Vincent Calabrese, watches, watchmakers, ZenithThe tourbillon turned from an ingenious device to fight gravitational errors into a place holder for fine watchmaking of inflationary abundance. We’ll attempt to highlight its highs and lows, and discuss its future

Gold Dust: Vacheron Constantin’s ´American 1921 Piece Unique` – “faithfully recreated as if in 1921”
Akrivia, collectors, Daniel Roth, François-Paul Journe, gold dust, Greubel Forsey, Jean-Pierre Hagmann, Kari Voutilainen, Michel Boulanger, Michel Parmigiani, Novelty 2021, Peter Speake, Rexhep Rexhepi, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Vianney Halter, watchesHow Vacheron Constantin created the ´American 1921 Piece Unique`: When one of the ´Holy Trinity` comes across like an independent artisan …

Collector´s view: 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold „Homage to F. A. Lange”
A. Lange & Söhne, collectors, Novelty 2020, Patek Philippe, watchesHands-on with A. Lange & Söhne ´1815 Rattrapante Honeygold` with real live life pictures – and a competitor on par

Gold Dust: Massena Lab’s Archetype 0.0 brings back the lovely gilt dials of the past
collectors, gold dust, Massena Lab, Novelty 2021, watchesNoted collector, industry insider and now also watch producer William Massena embarked on a mission to revive the forgotten art of ‘true’ gilt dials – a high rejection rate allowed for only two hand full of Archetype 0.0 watches to be made

Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronographs: manual shift sticks vs automatic transmission?
collectors, Hamilton, Novelty 2021, watchesIn search for a ‘serious’ watch with credible history, stylish, reliable but not too expensive? The Hamilton Intra-Matic chronographs come to mind. Now available with automatic and manual wind movements, and a few subtle differences

Hands-On with the new IWC Pilot’s Chronograph 41mm
collectors, IWC Schaffhausen, Novelty 2021, watchesWhat looks like just a smaller case and a new dial for IWC’s classic Pilot’s Chronograph is indeed an upgrade that recalls the traditional ‘engineer type watchmaking’ of IWC

The value of passionate spending: A bespoke project about shoes with ´Atelier Leonard Kahlcke`
bespoke, collectors, Leonard Kahlcke, ShoesA first meeting with shoemaker Leonard Kahlcke and no intention to start a new bespoke project on my side … and then life came in between

Collector´s view: MING 27.02 – two different versions, at least!
collectors, MING, Novelty 2021, watchesHands-on with the MING 27.02 - a novelty for 2021 but sold out already. Yet it´s just amazing what it has to offer at its prices, given its (unique) design and execution

The value of passionate spending: A bespoke project about shoes with ´Il Micio – Hidetaka Fukaya`
bespoke, collectors, Hidetaka Fukaya, ShoesThis time it´s about shoes, a personal bespoke project with ´Il Micio - Hidetaka Fukaya`, from Firenze. A first on several levels and an interesting journey

The OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Cal. 3861 – an icon made fit for the future
collectors, Novelty 2021, Omega, watchesThe Porsche 911, the Leica M or the OMEGA Speedmaster – the crux for such timeless industrial designs is how to keep them up to date. With the new Speedmaster Moonwatch Cal. 3861 there’s something for the Rationalist, the Purist and the Maximalist

Gold Dust: Paul Gerber Cal. 41 – the seconds in your hand
collectors, gold dust, Paul Gerber, watches, watchmakersPaul Gerber is perhaps the most subtly ironic watchmaker – always ready with a charming watchmaking twist – such as this ‘bi-nique’ Cal. 41 wristwatch with switchable jumping/permanent seconds and triple rotors

Zenith ´Chronomaster Sport` – a new dress and the El Primero Cal. 3600: updates with benefits…
collectors, Novelty 2021, watches, ZenithThe venerable El Primero gets a first substantial upgrade (Cal. 3600) in 5 decades: 1/10 of a second, more autonomy, conventional crown positions, and revised chrono mechanics, clothed in a new old dress – ´Chronomaster Sport`

Vianney Halter’s new Deep Space Tourbillon Resonance: allowing a glimpse into the temperamental nature of the Universe
collectors, Novelty 2021, Vianney Halter, watches, watchmakersThe Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon Resonance shows the universe space-time continuum on your wrist – and this without any astronomical indication

Collector´s view: MING – Ming 18.01 H41
collectors, MING, Novelty 2020, watchesHands-on: a comprehensive collector´s view on the MING 18.01 H41 and its (universal) bracelet. The latest diver watch to the MING family, a novelty from 2020.

OMEGA: Hands-On with the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum
collectors, Omega, watchesWith the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum, OMEGA reinvented its watchmaking core philosophy, subtly, surprisingly, and full of delights for the aficionado

Gold Dust: The MIH Watch – A Purist’s delight, a Milestone and a Pacemaker of the rarest sort
collectors, Ludwig Oechslin, MIH Watch, Paul Gerber, watchesWe revisit the watch after a 'relaunch' of the MIH Watch is iminent, but the 'dream team' of Ludwig Oechslin, Paul Gerber – and even the namesake and beneficiary MIH distance themselves

Hands-on with the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date – stainless steel and red gold
collectors, Glashütte Original, Novelty 2020, watchesA novelty from 2020, a new member of the ´Spezialist`collection from Glashütte Original: SeaQ Panorama Date - in a bicolour case with a grey and (synthetic) textile strap

F.P. Journe 20th Anniversary Exhibition « 20 years of Résonance »
collectors, F.P. Journe, François-Paul Journe, watchesA virtual walk through F. P. Journe’s exhibition celebrating the 20th Anniversary of his iconic Chronomètre à Résonance watch

The Finalist Watches of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020 (GPHG) – our Favourites
Andersen Genève, Armin Strom, Atelier de Chronométrie, Bernhard Lederer, Bovet, Breitling, Bulgari, Chanel, collectors, De Bethune, Dior, Ferdinand Berthoud, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Habring2, Hajime Asaoka, IWC Schaffhausen, Jacob & Co, Kurono, Louis Erard, MB&F, MING, Novelty 2020, Petermann Bédat, Romain Gauthier, Sarpaneva Watches, Trilobe, Urwerk, Van Cleef & Arpels, watchesA lot of things are new for this year’s edition: here’s our take on the Academy’s selection of the 2020 GPHG finalists

Schwarz Etienne: Hands-On with the new Roma Synergy by Kari Voutilainen
collectors, Kari Voutilainen, Novelty 2020, Schwarz Etienne, watches, watchmakersThe Roma Synergy shows how carefully Kari Voutilainen interprets the work of a fellow integrated manufacturer

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking: Ferdinand Berthoud
collectors, Ferdinand Berthoud, watchesFerdinand Berthoud - an acclaimed watchmaker in the 18th century and reborn as a brand only in 2015 – old yet young with highest ambitions and idiosyncratic details

Breguet – Hands-On with the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Blue Ref. 5367PT
Breguet, collectors, Novelty 2020, watchesFrom Cerulean over Yves Klein to Ultra Marine– the many shades of blue might well be the penultimate instance of a Grand Feu enamel dial

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking: Patek Philippe
collectors, Patek Philippe, watchesThe famous watchmaker from Geneva is an obvious candidate, isn’t it?

Swatch – Hands-On with the Sistem51 Petite Seconde
collectors, Novelty 2020, Swatch, watchesA timeless marvel of automatised watchmaking gets a subtle treat

Chopard – Hands-on with the L.U.C. Flying T Twin
Chopard, collectors, L.U.C, watchesThe manufacture’s first automatic flying tourbillon is destined to adorn the wrists of discerning gentlemen.

The pinnacle of (fine) watchmaking – of old masters, elves, virgins … or superheroes?
AHCI, Audemars Piguet, collectors, Ferdinand Berthoud, Greubel Forsey, Lang & Heyne, Patek Philippe, Paul Gerber, Rexhep Rexhepi, Romain Gauthier, Swatch, Urwerk, watches, ZenithHow to define the very best in watchmaking? the eclecticum looks beyond in-house and finishing...