Collector´s view: Patek Philippe ´Calatrava` Ref. 6007G – less puristic but with lots of charm and three colours to choose from

Hands-On with something uncommon yet desirable from Patek Philippe´s Calatrava collection, with three new white gold timepieces featuring a modern, graphic style and distinguished ebony black dials with rhythmic geometry – Ref. 6007G.

Calatrava, Military and Bauhaus – the new Patek Philippe Ref. 6007G offers an eclectic yet unusual mix of styles comes to my mind when looking at this uncommon yet contemporary timepiece, but there is more than just the latest one from 2023.

The evolution of the Ref. 5000/6000

It all started in 1992 with a limited-edition of 1000 watches (a little bird whispered me that even Ferrari was involved – somehow), and we are talking about the Ref. 5000G (33.4mm; cal. 240 automatic with micro-rotor) with black dial, Arabic numerals, and subsidiary seconds between four and five.

Me always had a soft spot for fine watches in white metal and with black dials – no exception here. There have been additional iterations (in terms of metals and dials) afterwards because of its success, but those are not important for today.

In 2005 Patek released the next one from this ´Military-Bauhaus-Series`, quite similar in design but with a pointer date on top – Ref. 6000G (37mm; cal. 240).

Once more a couple of variations have been introduced later.

A one of watch was sold for charity at auction in 2007, also quite similar in design but with titanium case and two-tone dial – Ref. 6000T (37mm; cal. 240). Sold for impressive US$ 240k.

(image © SJX)

2017 it was time for the next one and once more: white gold, black dial, and a similar design – Ref. 6006G-001 (39mm; cal. 240 PS C).

From a diameter of 33.4mm up to 39mm PP always used the same base calibre, which is well-known, reliable, and attractive if you one doesn´t expect superior/fancy finishing. Well, despite its its special charm it is still a kind of ´entry-level` Patek (even if today´s prices might suggest otherwise …). Surprising however how Patek well managed to keep the dial balance while increasing the case (and hence dial) diameter.

Finally, a larger change came with the Ref. 6007A-001 (40mm; cal. 324 S C) from 2019, retrospectively as a transitional version, introduced on the occasion of the completion of its new production building in Plan-les-Ouates (Geneva). It is the direct predecessor of the new Ref. 6007G and came with exactly the same 40mm case (albeit in stainless steel), central seconds and the very same dial design. It also marks the transition from the micro-rotor powered movement to a simpler one with central rotor – which we regret, kind of.

The fifth generation and so far last iteration in this line – Ref. 6007G (40mm x 9.17mm; water-resistant to 30m; cal. 26-330 S C) – was introduced just recently during Watches&Wonders 2023, but this time it´s three different white gold black dial timepieces with added spice (carbon motif) in the centre of the dial, gold applied numerals with white luminescent coating and touches of… spicy colours like:

1. yellow (6007G-001)
   
2. red (6007G-010)
   
3. blue (6007G-010)
   

Dynamic design with refined details, a different movement with date at 3 o´clock and stop seconds is what you get this time, plus a steep price increase.

Snapshots of all three versions:

All three colours work very well, and one can choose based on personal style & context.

Conclusion

It´s a beauty, no matter which colour you fall for, and yes it´s tempting once more. Even an ´eclectic collection` comes to my mind with at least four of them – white gold cases from 33.4mm up to 40mm.

The price (close to €40k incl. tax) isn´t a surprise these days, but hey it´s still a simple watch with a date and yes it´s an entry-level Patek Philippe. Anyway, given the means I would go for (at least) one and most probably the one bringing back memories to fancy Italian sports cars … – a red line/common thread you know ?

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